Betawi
Traditional Cuisines; Reflection the
Native Culture of Jakarta (Formerly Known as Batavia)
Dhian
Tyas Untari1, Ricky Avenzora2 , Dudung Darusman2,
Joko Prihatno3, Harnios Arief2
1Indraprasta PGRI University, Indonesia
2Bogor Agricultural University, Indonesia
3The Ministry of Environment and Forestry Republic of
Indonesia
e-mail:
tyas_un@yahoo.co.id
Abstract. Betawi is a native tribe in Jakarta where once
known as Batavia. The modernization concept brings quite significant impact on
the change in value system order in Betawi Culture. Research has the two phases. The first phase
was to analyse the potentials and the functions of Betawi Traditional Cuisines;
have using secondary data. The second phase was analysed the culinary
socio-cultural representation of the community; using the primary data.
Geographically, the respondents will be taken from the five administrative
areas of the Special Capital District of Jakarta (330 respondents in total).
The assessment aspects in the representation test include: knowledge,
uniqueness, originality, social value, distribution, sensitivity and
seasonality
Keywords: Betawi, Jakarta, Batavia,
Society, Culture
JEL Codes:
1.
Introduction
Jakarta is one of many regions in Indonesia with a high
complexity of community social interaction, and a discussion on the culture in
Jakarta has been a highly strategic issue. Jakarta as the Capital of Indonesia
experiences a relatively significant population explosion. This is because
Jakarta has its own attractiveness as the urbanization destination. Sinulingga
(2005) even says that the number of those migrating to cities used to be only
20 percent of the total population. Now, it has reached 80 percent. The tremendously
compact social interaction accelerates the acculturation and cultural
assimilation processes between the native with the immigrant community culture.
The modernization concept brings quite significant impact on
the value system order changes in Betawi Culture. One of those cultural orders
which begin to fade away is Culinary Culture. The
multidimensional social problems that everyone seeks to remedy them are very
complex and no actor can confront them on their own (Ep Chedli, 2016). Currently, the existence of Betawi Culinary Culture is far
from maximum. The main problem encountered in developing Betawi Traditional
Cuisines is the lack of dissemination of knowledge on culinary variety, even
for Betawi Community themselves (Avenzora et al., 2014). It should be
acknowledged though that introducing culinary variety is not merely the
responsibility of one certain community or two, rather it is also the
responsibility of all stakeholders (Untari, 2016) including entrepreneurs,
culture specialists and government with their policies which are expected to
support the continuance of Betawi Culture as the native culture in Jakarta.
Thereby, the process of re-introducing Betawi Culinary Culture and mapping the
psychological frame of all community in the society into conservation
perception and continuance of socio-cultural values of Betawi Traditional
Cuisines have been something urgent to do.
2.
Method
The research
developed here is the phenomenology one, aiming at understanding certain
phenomenon or reality by placing the reality as social construction, truth and
emphasizing on reviewing the exploration of human experience. In order to
answer the problem this research focuses on, then, its activities are divided
into two phases, namely analyzing the potentials and the functions of Betawi
Traditional Cuisines; have using secondary data and analyzing as well as
testing the culinary socio-cultural representation in the community of the
Special Capital District of Jakarta using the primary data. The secondary data
come from previous studies on the aspects of Betawi Culture, history of Betawi
Culture development, environmental ecology and study of Betawi Culinary
variety. Meanwhile, the primary data comes from the questionnaire spread to the
respondents. The respondents in this research are classified into three
categories, namely Aboriginal Betawi, Betawi Descent and Non-Betawi.
Geographically, the respondents will be taken from the five administrative
areas of the Special Capital District of Jakarta. Each category of each area
has 30 respondents (330 respondents in total). The assessment aspects in the
representation test include: knowledge, uniqueness, originality, social value,
distribution, sensitivity and seasonality.
Meanwhile, the
instrument used in collecting the primary data is Likert scale 1-7. It is
adjusted with the characteristics of Indonesian people who are very delicate in
articulating a value (Avenzora, 2008). One Score One Indicator is used in
analyzing the questionnaire further. The One Score One Indicator method is an
analysis model used by developing the elaboration of sets of questionnaire in
the data collection and evaluating the variables which have been determined
(Avenzora, 2008). The non-parametric statistics is used in analyzing the
results of representation test to figure out the significance of different
scores of each respondent category.
3.
Result And Discussion
A. Lengthy History
of Betawi Culture
Betawi Ethnic is the initial inhabitants of Jakarta City and
its surrounding where the existence of Betawi ethnic has existed since
Prehistoric Era and inhabited the nort part of Java Island since 3,500 – 3,000
BCas stated by Tjandarasasmita (1977) in his monograph "Jakarta Raya dan
Sekitarnya Dari Zaman Prasejarah Hingga Kerajaan Pajajaran” (Great Jakarta and
Around from Prehistoric until Pajajaran Kingdom Era). There are at least three
opinions which explain the origin of Betawi Ethnic. Tjahjono (2003) suggests
that Betawi Ethnic comes as a result of interactions between ethnics and tribes
brought along by the Netherlands to Batavia, hence Betawi Ethnic is said to be
new immigrants to Jakarta. This ethnic group was born from the combination of
various groups such as Sundanese, Malay, Javanese, Arab, Balinese, Bugis,
Makassarese, Ambonese, and Chinese.
In general, the area of Betawi Culture can be divided into
two parts, namely Betawi Tengah (Central Betawi) or Betawi Kota (Betawi Urban)
and Betawi Pinggiran (Betawi Rural). The Betawi Tengah or Betawi Kota area
include those regions which at the end of the Dutch colonial administration
belonging to Gemeente Batavia area, except several places such as Tanjung Priuk
and around (Sufianto, Sugino and Andyni: 2015), while those areas outside it,
both those belonging to the Special Capital District of Jakarta and the areas
around them, are included into the Betawi Pinggiran area which at the old days
were called as Betawi Oraby Betawi Tengah people. Based on their areas, the
Betawi Pinggiran community are classified into two groups, namely Betawi
Pinggiran Utara (North Rural Betawi) and Betawi Pinggiran Timur (East Rural
Betawi) communities. The Betawi Pinggiran Utara community are those living in such
areas as the northern part of Jakarta, western part of Jakarta and also
Tangerang. They are highly influenced by Chinese culture. Meanwhile, the Betawi
Pinggiran Timur community are those inhabiting the eastern and southern parts
of Jakarta, Bekasi and Bogor (Normah, 2015). They are highly influenced by
Sudanese culture and custom. They generally come from low economic class.
Many things have caused the existence of these two Betawi
culture areas. These include historic, economic, and sociologic developments,
different levels of ethnic elements which formed the origin of local
inhabitants, including the level of culture of ethnics of origin influencing
their next cultural life such as education. In the Central Betawi area, ever
since the nineteenth century, there have been formal educational
infrastructures like schools. The same applied to religious education. School
were even more widespread during the twentieth century, afther the Dutch
Colonial Government implemented the so-called ethical politic, the execution of
which was mostly supported by Gemeente (Municipality) of Batavia with its
jurisdiction stretching to around 250 square kilometres. (www.Jakarta.go.id).
B. Betawi Community
Culinary Culture
The term culinary in English great dictionary is defined as
something related to cooking and kitchen (Untari and Dhona, 2013). Thus,
literally culinary means the kitchen people usually use to refer to something
related to cooking or culinary profession. However, there is also this term
known as gastronomy. Andika (2008) in Sabudi (2011) suggest that the term
kuliner is absorbed from a foreign language; hence an ambiguity occurs that it
means the art of processing or presenting delicious dishes while it is actually
incorrect, since the correct term for such activities is gastronomy. Yet, in
relation to market development, such things as terms, labels, and brands are
critically important. An easy-to-remember label will be highly determined for a
product’s success in penetrating and selling in a market. It is for this reason
that culinary is commonly used recently.
The culture of eating is a habit applicable in a society
constituting a part of local cultural expression which reflects tradition,
economic level, educational background, and information flow the society is
following. In Betawi community, there is a culture of eating which relates to
their eating habits, namely nyarap (having breakfast), lunch, and grand meal
(dinner). The habit of nyarap occurs in the morning. Then, lunch usually lasts
from 12.30 to 13.30. However, not everyone can gather for lunch, because some
of the family members might be still out there. The dishes served during
nyarapare simpler, usually consisting of only a cup of coffee/tea and snacks
such as traditional cake or ketan urap. Meanwhile, the dishes for lunch have
more complete composition, consisting of steamed rice, side dishes, vegetables,
and sometimes equipped with emping/kerupuk, perkedel, pickle/lalapan along with
the sambal. What feels more special is that during the grand dining tradition
all members of family have gathered at home. The dishes served during this
grand meal consist of steamed rice, side dish, vegetables, plus complementary
dishes. Sometimes, Aboriginal Betawi society serves their grand meal on a bale
or on a mat on the floor since in addition to their fairly large number of
family members, serving their meal on a baleor on the floor (lesehan) makes
them more close to each other. All members of family ngeriung (gather) around
that place. When they have more money the meal is closed with desserts, such as
kolak or setup, and for adults sometimes they will conclude it by ngupi
(sipping a glass of coffee).
To complement their dishes, the families in Betawi community
usually use such utensils as plates, spoons and fork. However, it is quite
often that there are those meals that people can eat without having to use
these utensils. Thus, it is important to provide a certain container for them
to wash their hands or centangan. They also have some myths regarding what they
must not do while eating involving: the plate must not be held on the palm of
the hand (ditampa) or they will find it hard to earn money from their job; it
is also not justified to eat while nyiplak, i.e. chewing the meal in such a way
that produces noises from the mouth; no cat-like eating habit is allowed, i.e.
sniffing the meal first before eating it or licking the plate after finishing
the meal; no sipping the vegetable soup directly from the vegetable container;
no eating right at the door step while standing; no eating and talking at the
same time; when others are eating it is not allowed to nyantong, i.e. standing
and starring at them like they also want to eat it; no celamitan, i.e. asking
others to share their meal. Several actions are also deemed less favoured, such
as: betahak or belching while eating; releasing gas while eating is not
justified; eating until awfully fulfilled that they cannot do anything else or
kemelekeren; mindo, i.e. having a meal in between nyarapand lunch, or in
between lunch and grand meal, or after having dinner. Those who love to do
mindo are called gembul or jaga rasmi (ruler bodyguard) (Jakarta.go.id).
Time has changed people’s eating culture, and Modern Betawi
community is not an exception from it. The relatively high mobility has made
people forget to “nyarap.” It is not even hard today to find people eating
while walking, where such habit used to be a taboo in Betawi community.
Moreover, the tradition of having dinner which used to be the moment where
every member of the family gathered has now been infrequently done. This is
because the time one needs to take to go from their workplace to home has
gotten longer, therefore when the dinner time comes they are frequently still
on their way home. People’s knowledge on healthy lifestyle has also led them to
maintain certain diet pattern where rice consumption is reduced because rice is
considered as having high level of carbohydrate and replace rice with
low-sugar, low-carbohydrate, healthy meals. A change has also occurred to
people’s life. In the past, eating served as a means of making members of
family more intimate. Today eating has been a way of having fun or relaxing
with colleagues and friends. Eating has also served as a means of showing one’s
socio-economic level within their community. The changes that the time brings
are indeed inevitable. However, it is imperative that these changes be
controlled. The control aims at preventing the society’s socio-cultural
development, particularly in Betawi society, from separating the meaning of
culture conservation farther away from modernization.
C. Food as Betawi
Cultural Identity
Cuisine is one of cultural products. Hence, cuisine holds an
important position as Betawi Culture for cuisine has been a reflection of the
relationship between Betawi Ethnic and their environment. The long history of
Betawi Ethnic development in Jakarta shows how Betawi Community acculturated
with those cultures from other regions in the Indonesian archipelago and even
with foreign cultures brought along by the colonialists, traders and religious
preachers.
In a study, 150 culinary types are inventoried. These
cuisines can be classified into several groups based on such characteristics as
general classification, social function, historic value, renewed value,
modification to the culinary materials and food substance content (Table 1).
The classification is necessary to find out the positioning of these cuisines
within the food procession order. Food cannot be separated from the society’s
social life. Food will always be there in every activity of the society. That
is why classifying food based on their social functions is important in the
development of culinary culture. In addition to having social functions, food
is also a reflection of a series of history of a society in a region.
Table
1. The General Classification of Betawi Culinary
Aspect |
Amount |
|
General
Classification |
Mind Course |
64 |
Snack |
73 |
|
Chili sauce |
3 |
|
Beverage |
10 |
|
Social
Function |
Ceremonial; human life cycle |
52 |
Ceremonial; Religion |
23 |
|
Daily Food |
90 |
|
Historical
Value |
Adaptation ; Middle Eastern |
6 |
Adaptation ; Western |
4 |
|
Adaptation ; China |
2 |
|
Ecological history of Batavia/Jakarta |
9 |
|
Innovation |
Cooking tools |
147 |
Cooking process |
5 |
|
Serve tools |
22 |
|
Serve process |
60 |
|
Modification |
Form |
13 |
Material |
0 |
|
Cooking spices |
13 |
|
Complement |
19 |
Cuisine is always close to society’s socio-cultural life.
The same applies to Betawi community. In Betawi culture, there are several
commemorations or ceremonies at each phase of human life cycle, starting from
pregnancy, birth, infant, childhood, adolescence, marriage and death.
Pregnancy Phase. During this phase, Betawi Community
practices an event they call “nujuh bulanan”, a ceremony related to 7th-month
pregnancy period. Nujuh is taken from the total number of days in a week, which
amounts to 7 days. The number seven is used as a reference in the nujuh bulanan
ceremony. This ceremony aims at obtaining sense of being protected by reciting
Al-Quran surah Yusuf and Maryam. The surahs are chosen in the hope that if the
baby is a girl she will be as beautiful as Maryam and if the baby is a boy he
will be as handsome as Prophet Yusuf. The family conducting this ceremony also
wish for His bless and protection so that the baby to be born will be safe and
one day would be pious child with noble manners and obedience to his/her
parents. The compulsory dish in this event is rujak which consists of 7
different fruits, i.e.: pomegranate, young mango fruit, pomelo, half-ripe
papaya, jicama, hog plum, sweet potato, and rujak sauce consisting of palm
sugar, tamarind, bird eye chili, salt, shrimp paste, etc. Pomegranate is one of
the fruits the existence of which is a must in rujak of nujuh bulanan ceremony.
The same goes to pomelo. In their opinion, the ripe and red pomegranate will
make the baby to be born very attractive and loved by everyone. Pomelo has its
own meaning. Pomelo usually tastes sweet and makes a good rujak, and its skin
could be easily peeled. It serves as a wish that the birth delivery will run
smoothly and easily with no significant hindrance, just as how easy it is to
peel the pomelo.
Birth Phase. During this phase, the baby is newly born and
Betawi community practices the procession called as “mapas”. It is a ceremony
which is held when there is a woman who just delivers her baby. In this
ceremony, the mother of the new-born is required to consume “sayur papasan”
which contains numerous kinds of vegetables to keep the mother as well as the
new-born healthy.
Infancy Phase. Infancy is said to be one of the most phases
since during this period an individual learns to understand various things.
Infancy begins from the birth of a human to the world. As a religious society,
Betawi people perform Islam sharia in the form of aqiqah. Betawi people also
perform puputan procession.
Puput Puser. The puput puser or “puputan” procession is a
ceremony organized when the baby’s umbilical cord falls off (puput). Betawi
people hold simple communal feast. Usually Betawi people will serve Nasi kuning
along with side dishes and those wealthier will serve ayam sempyok as an addition.
Aqiqah. It represents a communal feast ceremony for a
new-born by slaughtering two goats for a boy or a goat for a girl. This is just
like what Islam teaches. Another ceremony is having the baby’s hair cut when it
is 40 day old. In addition, Betawi people would organize pengajian (public
preaching) and share Nasi Berkat (meal package) consisting of cooked rice, side
dishes, fruits and kerupuk to their neighbors or relatives who attend the
event. The meat from the slaughtered goat will be cooked into gulai or satay
and it will be distributed to the neighbours and relatives.
Adolescence Phase. During this phase, the baby has grown and
has reached the childhood age. Betawi people are a society mostly practicing
Islam quite piously. Therefore, in this phase Betawi people have two
processions, namely sunatan or circumcision (for boys) and khatam Al’Quran or
reciting the whole Al Qur’an.
Sunatan. For Betawi people, sunat is meant to be something
to distinguish. It means something to distinguish the age between a child and
someone who has reached puberty. Their parents will talk and discuss to reach
consensus with their village elders to hold the circumcision ceremony. In this
event, the commonly served cuisines are Betawi-specific nasi kuning made from
glutinous rice and its side dishes in the form of meat stew, acar kuning
(literally yellow pickles), serondeng, fried onions, and emping melinjo. In
addition, wealthier Betawi people will usually add it with ayam sempyok.
Khataman. Betawi people are a religious society. Since early
in their lives, children of Betawi Ethnic have been introduced to education of
religion particularly in recitation Al Quran. It is therefore unsurprising that
many children have finished reciting Al Quran. And for their parents, it is a
pride when their children could finish reciting Al Quran. This pride eventually
leads them to organize the so-called “slametan Khataman” event. This event in
Betawi is frequently called as Tamatan Qur’an. The ceremony is highly important
for Betawi people because it serves as a sign that the children have understood
well the teachings of Islam. In this procession, the cuisines served include
nasi kuning or nasi uduk along with the side dishes. Several parents also make
nasi tumpeng.
Adulthood Phase. In this phase, someone in Betawi society
has been regarded to have matured both psychologically and biologically.
Therefore, during this phase the events being held have something to do with
marriage. Seven processions during adulthood phase are known, namely;
ngedeleng, ngelamar, bawe tande putus, sebar undangan, ngerudut, akad nikah,
kebesaran, negot and pulang tige ari.
Ngedelengin. Ngedelengin is finding a future female daughter
in-law which is done by a Mak Comblang or matchmaker. Usually, in this event the
family of future in-laws will serve tea or coffee and traditional cakes.
Ngelamar. In the proposal procession, the man’s family
declares their intention to propose the woman to her family. In this event, the
“Kue bacot” is known, i.e. the action of giving Betawi-specific traditional
cakes such as wajik, dodol, geplak and sweetened sugar palm fruit. The kue
bacot tradition is held after the proposal procession is done by the man’s
family. Kue bacot is given by the woman’s family to the man’s family in return
for the hantaran during the proposal event. Additionally, the traditional cakes
can also be given to the neighbors around her house, aiming at notifying them
that a marriage will be held in a near future. During the proposal procession
of Betawi custom, what should be prepared include Sirih lamaran (proposal
betel), pisang raja banana, white bread, accessory gifts and the Messengers
consisting of the Matchmaker, Two pair of elders representing the future
parents in law.
Bawe Tande Putus. Bawe tande putus is a statement or
agreement when the wedding will be held. In this procession, the future
in-laws’ families usually serve traditional cakes and coffee or tea as the
dishes during this family discussion for consensus.
Sebar Undangan. When the dates of marriage covenant and
kebesaran (reception) have been set, the next thing to do is to spread
invitations. In this procession, Betawi People have the so-called “Nasi Jotan”.
This nasi jotan consists of: steamed rice, yellow gluttonous rice with
serundeng topping, carrot and cucumber pickles, stir-fried beans and grilled
milkfish. Nasi jotan is given by the bride’s family to public figures or
someone considered as the elders in their village. Giving nasi jotan is meant
to be invitation to attend the wedding. Nasi jotan is usually given a day prior
to the wedding day. Some Betawi people give cigarettes instead to indicate that
the recipients are invited to attend the marriage covenant or reception events.
Ngerudat. This is a procession where the groom’s big family
come to the bride’s home, while bringing along serah-serahan (wedding
equipment) such as roti buaya (alligator-shaped bread), pesalin, sie, etc. The
ngerudat procession usually serves as a commencement of the next procession,
i.e. marriage covenant.
Akad Nikah. Akad nikah or marriage covenant is the pledge
stated by the groom before the bride’s guardian. The set of marriage covenant
event usually begins with the “Palang Pintu” (literally: doorstop) procession.
In this procession, the bride’s family will give “Sayur Besan” as a respect to
their besan (son in-law’s parents).
Kebesaran. Kebesaran or currently commonly referred to as
reception is a ceremony where both the bride and the groom sit on puade to
accept greetings for being married from family and invitees. In this event,
both the bride and the groom’s families will invited their relatives,
colleagues and neighbours to share their joy. In this process, the bride’s
family will serve several types of dishes as a form of gratitude for the good
prayers the guests have given. The cuisines commonly served here include: nasi
uduk and its side dishes, coffee, tea, fruits, yellow glutonous rice with
serondeng topping, tape uli and some traditional cakes. However, in its
development nothing distinguishes the wedding reception of Betawi Ethnic and
that of Non-Betawi ethnics for the cuisines they serve are mostly the same.
Negor. The next procession is negor. It is an effort made by
the husband to convince his wife to start a new life as a family. It is also
highly sacred and meaningful for the lives of the two to live together building
their family, and serves as an evidence of the woman purity as a wife.
Pulang Tige Ari. Pulang tige ari is held when the groom has
stayed for three days in the bride’s home. This event is held in the groom’s
home as an expression of how happy the groom’s family are that their son has
now become a leader for his family. During the event, the groom will be served
with tea or coffee and snacks.
Death Phase. The death ceremony or Haul or tahlilan, is held
by members of family when a death occurs. They will organize a communal meal
called selamatan or sedekahan. Such an event is also held at the 7th, 40th,
100th, and 1000th days after the death. The dishes commonly served in this
phase are:
- Nasi begané. It
is called nasi begané because the steamed rice is served with side dishes and
these side dishes are usually begané. Begané is adalah tumis kering ayam cacag
(cacag sauted chicken)
- In the Tige ari
(third day) dadar gulung is served, in the Tuju ari (seventh day) a complete
set of regular steamed rice is served. At the evening of the fifteenth day
ketupat sayur is served. Finally, at the evening of the fourteenth day ketupat
sayur laksa and sate pentul are served.
- In the haul
(1000th day commemoration) event, wealthier Betawi people generally serve nasi kebuli
and pacri
The family, relatives and neighbours to whom the obituary is
delivered will visit the grieving family. This activity of visiting the
impacted family in Betawi community is known as “nyelawat”.
In addition to the five phases, Betawi people also have
three social and religious events, namely; bikin/ pinde rume, Nazar and
Lebaran. Bikin/ Pinde Rume is held when Betawi people will commence their house
construction and move to the new home. As a society with relatively tight
kinship value, for this procession a separate commemoration is usually
arranged, by having a pengajian (public preaching) event and distributing nasi
berkat containing nasi kebuli, nasi uduk and Betawi traditional cakes. The next
procession is nazar. Rural Betawi people call it “ngucap” and “kaulan. ”It is a
promise someone makes in their heart and stated orally and expressly and heard
by those around him. This nazar should be realized as promised previously. If
it is not done, something bad will happen to the one stating the nazar. No
clear information is available regarding the dishes served in this event. This
is because a nazar is different from one person to another. The last one is
lebaran event. For Betawi people, lebaran is one of the peak of happiness after
accomplishing religious services and good deeds. To reach the lebaran, several
stages should be passed well and correctly. Betawi People know at least three
lebarans, namely lebaran Idul Fitri, Lebaran Haji (Pilgrimage), and Lebaran
Anak Yatim (Orphan). Most of Betawi people embrace Islam as their religion.
Thus, during Lebaran they celebrate it by serving grand meal for family and
relatives and even neighbors. The dishes commonly served during lebaran are:
Pesor, Ketupat, Sayur Goduk, Tape Uli, Kembang Goyang, Gingerbread, Biji
ketapang, Kue Kuping Gajah, Rendang, Batawi, Serondeng, Ayam Sempyok, Kue
Semprit, Cakes, Satu, Sagon, Nasi Briani, Nasi Kebuli, Dodol, Sugar Palm
Fruits.
D. Reflection of
Betawi Cuisines with Multi-Community Frame in the Special Capital District of
Jakarta
The results of this study show that there are five types of
cuisine, namely Familiar, Recall, Pass Known. Not every one of Betawi people
know these and some of those which are regarded as new dishes. The research is
conducted by involving three communities, namely Aboriginal Betawi, Betawi
Descents and Non-Betawi Community in the five administrative regions of the
Special Capital District of Jakarta (South Jakarta, North Jakarta, Central
Jakarta, East Jakarta and West Jakarta). The following figure (figure 1)
indicates that only six types of cuisines are still highly popular. Some dishes
even begin to be forgotten. And as its people and someone who concerns
ourselves about culture it is our responsibility to collectively reinstate the
existence of Betawi cuisines and restore the popularity of Betawi Culture,
particularly Betawi cuisines,so that Betawi Culture could once again become the
regional identity of Jakarta. With no prejudice to the values of those cultures
which have interactions of one another in Jakarta, we ought to begin to direct
our support to local values of a region.
Fig 1.
The Classification of Betawi Culinary Base on Communities Knowledge;
Source:
processing data (2017)
330 samples of five administrative regions of the Special
Capital District of Jakarta
There are six cuisines which are familiarly known to the
society in general. These six cuisines are: Kerak Telor, Gado- gado, Soto
Betawi, Roti Buaya, Nasi Uduk and Asinan Betawi. It is a bit hard to believe
that out of one hundred and fifty Betawi cuisine varieties, only six are known
recently. Meanwhile, ninety one (majority) cuisines belong to recall
classification. It means only some people know these cuisines. Based on the
results of observation and interviews with the society, the types of cuisines
included into this recall category are those “rumahan” (homemade) and “jajan
pasar” (market snack) dishes which are frequently offered as dishes for
breakfast. Here, we can see it clearly that when this type of cuisine is not
served at home and or offered as culinary products which are consumed on daily
basis, then it is possible that they will be gradually forgotten. It is also
obvious here those households play an important role in disseminating culinary
varieties. It is consistent with Suharti Siti and Suwarjo’s (2015) research. In
this research, sixteen types of culinary products are included into past known
category. 34 culinary products are even generally unknown to all respondents
from the Aboriginal Betawi community.
One of the objectives of this research is to map and
represent such values as uniqueness, originality, social, distribution,
sensitivity and seasonality of Betawi cuisines based on the opinion of the
three communities (Aboriginal Betawi, Betawi Descents and Non-Betawi). This
research finds that knowledge on socio-cultural values in Betawi cuisines is
diverse (Figure 2)
Fig 2.
The Representation Socio-Culture Value of Betawi Culinary
Source:
Processing data (2017)
This research finds that knowledge on socio-cultural values
in Betawi cuisines is diverse. Prior to determining the statistic method to be
used, the researcher performs the normality and homogeneity tests. To determine
whether or not the data are normally distributed, Kolmogorov-Smirnov test is
used by comparing the alpha value (5%) to the value of significance of the
processing output. Meanwhile, the homogeneity test is used as a reference in
determining the statistic test decision by comparing the homogeneity processing
output at alpha value of (5%). The output shows that the Normality test in each
category of each community in every region is 0.000, therefore, when it is
compared to the alpha value of 5%, then the normality test output of each
community in every region is less than the predetermined alpha value. Hence, it
could be stated that all data are not normally distributed.
The homogeneity test does not show different results. All
categories of each community in every region have an output value of 0.000.
This means it is less than the alpha value of 0.05. Thus, it could be
interpreted that the data are heterogeneous. The fact that the data are
heterogeneous and not normally distributed leads to the use of Non-Parametric
statistic method to be the next statistic data processing.
K Sample Median Matching Test is done to compare the
knowledge on culinary varieties of all communities among regions and the
Man-Whitney Test is used to compare the knowledge on cuisines between two
communities in Jakarta. The knowledge on Betawi cuisines is also influenced by
the lifestyle and interest of youth generation which seem to have increasingly
moved them farther from Betawi cuisine as it is considered less attractive
(Adiasih, 2015).From the data processing results in the K Sample Median Matching
Test, it is found that there is no knowledge difference between the Aboriginal
Betawi communities in the five Jakarta areas (Asymp. Sig. 0.250). The same
applies to the Betawi Descent communities, where no knowledge difference exists
between the Betawi Descent communities in the five Jakarta areas (Asymp. Sig.
0.118). Meanwhile, knowledge difference exists among Non-Betawi communities in
every Jakarta area (Asymp. Sig, 0.000). Distribution constitutes one of those
factors with significant influence on one’s knowledge on certain culinary types
(Yuliati, 2011). This is consistent with the results of observation, which find
that the culinary knowledge of Non-Betawi communities is highly dependent on
the cuisine availability in the market. It means when in an area only several
types of cuisine are marketed, and then these Non-Betawi communities will only
know of these cuisines being marketed there. Unlike their Non-Betawi
counterparts, aboriginal Betawi and Betawi Descent communities have better
knowledge since they could consistently make and serve Betawi Cuisine at
anytime or during certain ceremony.
People have some understanding of the social value of the
diverse Betawi Culinary Culture. There are seven categories (1 to 7), in which
category 1 is the cuisine with the least score and category 7 is the one with
the highest score. It is this cuisine with the highest score which in the
future should be developed, since the cuisine in this category is the most
representative one of Betawi Culture. However, in reality from the research
results it is found that not even one Betawi Cuisine belongs to categories 7
and 6. The reason behind this is the fact that the long history of Betawi
Culture development is influenced by other tribes and ethnics from both within
and outside of Indonesia. Thus, many Betawi Cuisines are considered to have
equally good qualities in terms of either their names, forms, colours, tastes
and even their cooking utensils and presentation tools with cuisines of other
tribes. The occurring overlay has caused the Betawi cuisines to be regarded as
less identical. 34 culinary types are included into category 5, 37 into
category 4, 36 into category 3, 41 into category 2 and, finally 2 cuisines are
included into category 1. This culinary categorization is highly helpful to
build a Betawi Culinary Brand, so that the approach to building the Regional
Identity of the regions of Special Capital District of Jakartain relation to
Culinary Culture is not merely based on people’s knowledge and demand of certain
types of cuisines. Rather, the development of Betawi Culinary Identity ought to
be based on the socio-cultural valuethat the dish possesses, in order for the
Cuisine being developed to truly represent Betawi Culture.
The output of K Sample Median Matching Test shows that there
is a difference of socio-cultural values between the three communities (Asymp.
Sig. 0.00). This is because the
understanding of Aboriginal Betawi community for their socio-cultural values decreases
when it is transferred to the Betawi Descent Community. One of the causes of
this decrease is the lack of dissemination of knowledge on culinary
socio-cultural values and lack of interest of Betawi Descent community to
improve their knowledge on the values of their own culture roots. As suggested
by Sahrif et al. (2012), knowledge on traditional cuisine is a representation
of collective knowledge from many generations. Meanwhile, from the point of
view of Non-Betawi Community, such difference in values is caused by the fact
that Betawi cuisines are less identical and they are still perceived to be
similar to culinary kinds from other regions. In addition, the currently
marketed Betawi cuisines are limited to food product, thus the interpretation
of the culture they bring along is infrequently stated.
4.
Conclusion
Betawi cuisines reflect the culture and long history of
Betawi community development as the native inhabitants of Jakarta. The current
development has made it difficult for Betawi Cuisine originality to maintain. A
study even finds that almost all Betawi cuisines undergo changes in all cooking
utensils, cooking process, presentation rites, and food presentation tools. The
difficulties of finding cooking utensils, presentation tools and the limited
knowledge of socio-cultural value of Betawi Cuisine drive the originality of
Betawi cuisines even farther away.
The main problem in maintaining sustainability of a culture
of a society is the less dissemination of knowledge on culinary varieties and
the culinary cultural values from a generation to the next one. Knowledge on
Betawi cuisines in Non-Betawi Community is highly dependent on the number of
culinary kinds being marketed around them. Thus, in this case the distribution
of Betawi Traditional Cuisines has been extremely important. Introducing Betawi
cuisines to families is also less likely to reach Non-Betawi community.
Therefore, market has served the purpose of being the main source of knowledge
for Non-Betawi Community in knowing Betawi cuisines.
The main problem in improving the knowledge of people in the
Special Capital District of Jakarta on the Cultural values of Betawi Cuisine is
the less disseminated knowledge on Culinary Culture between generations and the
lack of ability of Betawi cuisines to penetrate culinary markets. The government
as the one that determine the direction of culture and politic ought to address
their policies and support towards the development of Betawi Culinary Culture
as the embryo of Jakarta Culture by making Betawi cuisines into Jakarta
Culinary Icon and disseminating Betawi Culinary Cultural values more
extensively by involving the Aboriginal Betawi community as the informants. In
addition, the dissemination of Betawi Traditional Cuisine abroad both within
marketing and cultural contexts could use the network of Indonesian citizen
diasporas spread throughout the world.
.
5.
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